Highway 61

Friday, March 23, 2007

On this, the day of my daughter's wedding..

Palermo, Sicily

"That's what Pauli did, he offered protection to guys that couldn't go to the cops"

"I swear on the souls of my children that I will not be the one to break the peace we've made here today."

"I know it was you Fredo."

"sicilians are the best liars, a man's got 17 pantamimes..."

"Consiglietti..."

"You take care of that thing? No not that thing, the other thing?"

All joking aside, in the short time I've been in Palermo, I've become a made guy! So if you need a favor and I can help there may come a day when I will ask a favor in return.

Sicily seems to be the last stop on the Italian geographical reach south because it is incrediblty ancient and beautiful. The last place you should see before leaving the country and the continent for that matter. The coast is dotted with quaint little fishing villages and jagged volcanos that rake the clouds. Palmero itself has what I like to see in a town, a little third-world dodginess, lots of markets, an absence of tourists, great food, and palm trees. The markets here are filled with the freshest of everything: fish still curled on the ice from rigermortis, olives of every shade and variety, lots of spices, pine nuts, raisins, strawberries. They have lemons the size of a small child that if dropped from a tree would kill you dead. True story. I've been eating lots of pasta with sardines, pine nuts, and raisins. Lots lots thick little pizzettas, many many espressos (you'd have to peal me off the ceiling by 10AM on any given morning!)

I've been busy taking loads of photos and I have something in the neighborhood of 30 rolls to have developed when I get back. I really hope they come out nice.

I wish I had more time to explore Sicily but I have only two or three more days befor I have to get to Rome and see the Pope about some things.

I'll have heaps more to say about the food and architecture her that was both influenced heavily by the Moors, hence the heady spice markets and sweet and sour flavors in everything. The cannoli and Marsala here are the best anywhere, as they are both of this place. I'm doing my best to grab a few cook books in the local cuisine as well.

Till then

3 Comments:

  • you prolly dont know that my man is sicilian by way of his great-grandparents.. that's actually what got a 73 year old sicilian heart surgeon to rent his farm to us! I swear it all worked out because they are both sicilian! (not italian!) Then one day he was asking us if we could recommend anyone to move into the other farmhouse on our property and sammy said, "well I am not sure how many other sicilians there are around here, but I'll let ya know."
    BOY! was that a hit! buh dump bah bump........

    By Blogger Lala, at 11:28 AM  

  • Yo manolo i just saw your entie over at the elston farm
    Thanks

    I read your blogo

    "its great success"

    By Blogger Jeff Elston, at 7:21 PM  

  • So maybe you got jacked on that 5-course, but you must be the size of a house by now man. Gelato! Eggplant! Wines! Anchovies! Your food adventures sound fantastic. Quite jealous back here in 'ol NYC.

    -L

    By Blogger MissGinsu, at 6:22 PM  

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