buon giorno

I met two great gals from the land of Aus. Megan suggested we take a bus down to the heart of Chianti and hire some scooters for a wine tasting tour. We set out early this morning to a town called Greve in between Sienna and Florence and arrived around noon. We went to the market and bought a tub of pesto, sliced salame, a soppresatta that made slices a big as 12 inch records, a big block of focciacia, and a wedge of pecorino fresco, and headed off for the rental shop. They told up upon arriving that the scooters weren't ready but we were free to rent mountain bikes instead. We did and saddled up for a day on tour in the legendary Tuscan wine country. We only made it to two different wineries as the terrain was very rugged and getting to the hilltops where the villas were located took a good half an hour of gear grinding and panting. When we did arrive though we were rewarded by genuinely kind people eager to tell us everything there is to know about the special wine of that region. Chianti classico it seems was one of the first wines in Italy to wear the DOCG label, certifying its authenticity and origin. We drank sips of reservas, grappa, olive oil, and then settled down for a picnic beside an old farm building whose roof had become dirt again hundreds of years ago leaving a crumbling white stone wall as evidence of a building. There were combed expanses of grape vine, wild rugged olive groves, stone walls and winding country roads all in view from our perch up on the the hill ridge. There was a smoky blue cast over the land that was illuminated by the amber afternoon sun. No sounds of traffic of commerce, just the welcoming bark of farm dogs, birds, and the occasional lizard flashing through the dry roadside grass. I slept like a rock on the bus ride home. Its funny where saying hello to a stranger will take you in your day.

Also I had the good fortune of finally meeting a food writer and oracle of all things Italian and edible, Faith Willanger. She is a wonderful woman who seems dead set on helping me meet some of the chefs in Italy that are doing some great food. She handed me one of her books called Eating in Italy and a list of phone numbers of chefs in Michelin Three Star restaurants as well as a few One Star spots out in the country in Pulia. She gave me the name of her driver in Naples where Im to meet up with him so that he can chauffeur me out to the country for a visit to some of these remarkable places. All this and a mean cup of Coffee to boot. I cant wait to see whats going on in these kitchens and the possibility of getting back here to spend a few months in one of these places seems great. I didn't expect to be hit over the head with inspiration in this place but I have even if it fades I'm glad for the time of temporary satori.

luca brazzi sleeps with the fishes